Hi. I've recently acquired a huge August Forster upright from 1902 in walnut finish which I am in the process of restoring. I have stripped down the original polish and finished with 0000 wire wool ready for French polishing. However the underside of the top board lid and the underside of the keyboard fall lid are in pretty good shape so I am only going to use French Polish Restorer on these. The name plate is brass letters but it has tarnished and I am wondering what the best means of polishing up the brass letters may be without stripping off all the old shellac. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks.
PS does anyone have experience of using epoxy fillers to restore corners? The corners at the left and right hand side arms have been bumped and it would be nice to get a straight edge again. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Piano Case Refinishing
Moderators: Feg, Gill the Piano, Melodytune
Piano Case Refinishing
Last edited by Pianomate on 04 Dec 2008, 03:12, edited 1 time in total.
you can't polish the name without stripping the inside of the fall.
Prepare the wood and polish immediately with pale polish which will stabilise the polished letters. Subsequent pfads will be so thin as not to darken the letters.
The proper repair of corners is to cut them back and inlay a suitable piece of wood which is them coloured to match and you shouldn't even see the join!
Prepare the wood and polish immediately with pale polish which will stabilise the polished letters. Subsequent pfads will be so thin as not to darken the letters.
The proper repair of corners is to cut them back and inlay a suitable piece of wood which is them coloured to match and you shouldn't even see the join!
Thanks. I might just cut back the polish in a rectangle around the lettering.
It will be difficult doing what you say with the corners as it's burr walnut veneer and any joins will be noticeable. The epoxy can be stained so I'll have a go with the epoxy on a piece of scrap timber before I try it on the piano.
It will be difficult doing what you say with the corners as it's burr walnut veneer and any joins will be noticeable. The epoxy can be stained so I'll have a go with the epoxy on a piece of scrap timber before I try it on the piano.
As Vernon says, you should use similar timber not a filler/glue try http://www.john-boddy-timber.ltd.uk/news.htm . Cut well back and rebuild then veneer over. Good luck!
Yes I know John Boddy Timber - it's only 7 miles from here. I get all my French polishing supplies from Rydenor who are local.
Yes, you're right - I should do it properly and not take short cuts. I will try after all to obtain some burr walnut veneer and build up the corners as you say, but join in a wavy line to make it look less obvious. I can feather over the joint with some darker coulored shellac polish.
Yes, you're right - I should do it properly and not take short cuts. I will try after all to obtain some burr walnut veneer and build up the corners as you say, but join in a wavy line to make it look less obvious. I can feather over the joint with some darker coulored shellac polish.
Apart from black, burr walnut is the easiest to hide due to the bold grain and blemishes which you can carefully copy.
Have a look at the rest of the case and I bet you will find several examples of bits being coloured in as well as the new knots that have been inlaid where the originals have fallen out.
Have a look at the rest of the case and I bet you will find several examples of bits being coloured in as well as the new knots that have been inlaid where the originals have fallen out.
?
Yes I can see that now. It's the first time I've worked on burr walnut. Would using diluted black shellac be suitable for hiding the contrasting edges of the veneers?
PS do you think it looks best to leave the hinges as they are or polish and lacquer the hinges when you take them off (or does this make the piano look too "done-up"?)
Also, does anyone have any tips for reattaching veneers which have come unstuck at the edges. I have been using PVA adhesive and squirting it under the veneer with a hypodermic syringe, then clamping it between greaseproof paper between two sheets of wood, using G cramps. Perhaps someone has an easier method?
PS do you think it looks best to leave the hinges as they are or polish and lacquer the hinges when you take them off (or does this make the piano look too "done-up"?)
Also, does anyone have any tips for reattaching veneers which have come unstuck at the edges. I have been using PVA adhesive and squirting it under the veneer with a hypodermic syringe, then clamping it between greaseproof paper between two sheets of wood, using G cramps. Perhaps someone has an easier method?
Using black polish( shellac) you can actually " paint in" a new whorl to existing features over a repair, using the finest brush. Be bold! You now become an artist rather than a technician.
Take off all the brass and polish it. It will set off the finished job.
Your approach to re-glueing lifting veneer is fine.The greaseproof paper is great. You can also insinuate glue carefully using an ordinary thin dinner knife. Clean off all surplus glue otherwise, your cramping blocks, greaseproof paper and piano will become one inseperable unit.
Take off all the brass and polish it. It will set off the finished job.
Your approach to re-glueing lifting veneer is fine.The greaseproof paper is great. You can also insinuate glue carefully using an ordinary thin dinner knife. Clean off all surplus glue otherwise, your cramping blocks, greaseproof paper and piano will become one inseperable unit.
I would get the advice of a local French Polisher before doing any more. Yellow pages or local piano tuners know of FPs somewhere. May cost you £20 for his advice. If you have stripped it you could use Danish oil instead of FP. Almost as nice.
Have you worked out how long this will take you?
Fish glue for key tops
Have you worked out how long this will take you?
Fish glue for key tops
It has to be French Polish, and yes, I do know what I am talking about - I am the local French polisher - I've been doing it for years and am quite aware how long it takes! French polishing is my spare-time earner.
I've done countless of items of furniture before but is the first time, however I have done a complete piano.
I've settled on Garnet polish as this seems to best match the existing polish colour under the fall.
I've done countless of items of furniture before but is the first time, however I have done a complete piano.
I've settled on Garnet polish as this seems to best match the existing polish colour under the fall.
I include french polishing in my skills tho' I'm not as good or as fast as my Dad was.( try doing a grand top sometime-in black)
As it's your first piano, and I apologise if this is obvious, you must dismantle the case-work completely, removing all the panels,removal able, mouldings,brasswork,pedals etc.Mark everything clearly as they are all slightly different, and it will facilitate re-assembly. Also keep the various panel screws in seperately marked packets to avoid running a 5/8 screw through the front of the piano where a 1/2" should be!
Good hunting.
It will look a picture when finished.
bw
As it's your first piano, and I apologise if this is obvious, you must dismantle the case-work completely, removing all the panels,removal able, mouldings,brasswork,pedals etc.Mark everything clearly as they are all slightly different, and it will facilitate re-assembly. Also keep the various panel screws in seperately marked packets to avoid running a 5/8 screw through the front of the piano where a 1/2" should be!
Good hunting.
It will look a picture when finished.
bw